2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)

(aged in two-thirds new oak) Ripe peach, apple and rocks on the nose, complicated by a whiff of fennel. Tighter and more imploded than the Perrieres, showing less obvious volume today and a distinctly cool quality. This very rocky style has a structure like a red wine. Very long and firm on the aftertaste. Colin points out that this is the only wine in the cellar that’s an assemblage-in this instance, half of the fruit is from Pernand and half from Aloxe, picked the same day and vinified together. Tough going today, and almost certain to merit a higher score with several years of bottle aging.