2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

(bottled in December of 2009): Pale, bright yellow. Wonderfully nuanced, perfumed aromas of ripe pineapple, menthol, honey, spearmint, vanilla, caramel and wild herbs; a bit less exotic than usual for this young wine. Outstanding texture and intensity, but with less exotic ripeness (just 14%) and coconutty oak to get in the way of the pure, sharply chiseled notes of acacia blossom, wild herbs, spearmint and soil. Brisk acidity gives cut and penetration to the extremely long, delineated finish. There’s a bit of subtle botrytis character here but it only serves to contribute to the wine’s glyceral texture. Splendid, and built for long aging.