2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)

(vinified in wood for the first time, including a bit of new oak): Good bright, pale yellow with green highlights. Aromas of white and yellow peach, wet stone, smoky minerals and vanilla. Comes across as less obviously oaky than the Blanchots Vieilles Vignes, showing a distinctly brisk and penetrating character to its peach and caramel flavors. This youthfully imploded wine boasts very good cut but today the bright acidity has not yet harmonized with the wood component. Bernard Billaud made the change to vinification in oak because he always found this wine hard at the outset and slow to evolve; he felt that, done in wood, it would be less austere early on and would be drinkable in five or six years. This wine is showing much more energy than a sample I tasted last spring from barrel but calls for several years of patience.