2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Layers of intense, graphite-infused minerality underpin the 2012 Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu. Black fruit, tar, spices, violets and lavender all flesh out in the glass. Here, too, the Santenots is deeply marked by the pure intensity and richness of the year but there is plenty of energy and structure to balance the wine’s more overt leanings. Readers will need to be patient, as the 2012 is going to need time. I also tasted the 2005, a wine that is just beginning to approach the early part of its drinking window. As for the 2012, yields are punishingly low, well in excess of 50%.