2013 Barolo: The Late Releases (Oct 2017)

Borgogno’s 2009 Barolo Riserva is dark, dense and super-concentrated. Because of its almost shocking intensity, I would prefer to cellar the 2009 for at least a few years, which should allow some of the baby fat to melt away. Black cherry, smoke, incense and tobacco flesh out a decidedly imposing, brooding Riserva from Borgogno. As is often the case, the Riserva is a big, strapping Barolo endowed with considerable mid-palate heft and plenty of tannin.