2014 Germany: Riesling Resists Rain on the Rhine (May 2016)

This is dominated by the juicy flesh of grapefruit white peach and apple more than by their rinds or pips. To be sure, there is prominent piquancy, but of a subtly toasty, nutty, sesame seed sort; and when cyanic pip notes do emerge, in the finish, it is with an impressively glowing intensity that perfectly dovetails with billowing floral perfume. A glossy, polished feel provides an enveloping sense of richness to complement the wine’s piquancy, palpable extract richness and sense of grip, while its primary juiciness guarantees the fulfillment of a Riesling’s fundamental obligation to refresh. “La Borne” is a name dating to Napoleonic times for this part of Morstein. Although Wittmann could now register to bottle under the site’s cadaster name, that’s not going to happen because the name in question turns out to be “Im Oberen Brünnenhäuschen,” which would cause obvious confusion.