2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(an assemblage of parcels; 25 hectoliters per hectare from purchased 100%-millerandé grapes): Pale color. Very ripe aromas of orange zest and musky lees. Chewy, dense and saline, conveying very good cut but coming across as a bit youthfully clenched in the middle palate. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins. Raphael Coche told me that the 13.9% alcohol level here is not his ideal. (Incidentally, don’t hesitate to snap up Coche-Dury’s fresh, structured, fine-grained 2015 Bourgogne Blanc, which features captivating aromas and flavors of orange oil, spices and flowers; considerable power; and a very long, dry finish with lovely lift.)