2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Pristine, welcoming aromas of citrus zest, white flowers, crushed rock and dusty herbs (welcome to Chassagne, says Saouma): A distinctly airy style owing to its energy and wild herb character but saline, sappy and thick as well, gaining in breadth on the back half. This utterly seamless wine finishes with compelling length and brisk citrussy acidity (4.1 grams per liter, vs. 3.6 for the Embrazées). I found this beauty hard to scrape off my palate.