2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Aromas of apple, spices, marzipan and iodine convey a distinctly flinty minerality. Dense, thick and backward, with its lovely sucrosité buffered by sheer thickness of material. The wine’s mouthfilling opulence is given shape and lift by crushed stone and noble herbs, but today this massive, rather Montrachet-like Caillerets comes across as lower-pitched than the La Romanée. Really clings to the palate on the chewy, rising aftertaste. This is a bit inscrutable today but will probably equal the La Romanée in quality. (13.8% alcohol, among the highest of these 2016s)