2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Bright straw-yellow. Musky crushed-stone minerality lifts aromas of fresh peach, lime and orange zest. Boasts terrific salty intensity and minerality on the palate, with an old-vines intensity and inner-mouth tension that call for at least a few years of bottle aging. A concentrated midweight with strong soil character and noteworthy rising, palate-dusting persistence. I prefer this to the Gruyaches for its mineral lift, salinity and stony precision. I tasted these 2016s in New York in August, but at the estate at the beginning of June Jean-Philippe Fichet’s assistant Joann Hervey expressed the opinion that the 2016s are closed up and in need of time. I find them more harmonious than that but this Chevalières certainly calls for patience.