2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill is a very good wine, but some of the nuances that make Volcanic Hill so distinctive are presently masked by copious new French oak. Aeration brings out the wine's natural energy and drive, along with a host of savory and mineral notes that add complexity. Cedar, tobacco, mint, dried cherry, licorice and anise open up with time in the glass. The 2016 is very, very good, but not as expressive of site as it can be – or should be, in my view.