2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(five barrels, all new): Bright medium yellow. Totally different on the nose than the Perrières , offering vibrant aromas of white peach, mint, spices, iodine and crushed rock. Conveys compelling sweetness and spicy depth to its flavors of yellow and white stone fruits accented by mandarin orange zest. With its utterly seamless texture of liquid silk, this spectacular young Montrachet is almost too easy to taste today. (For his part, Lafon says it was more floral a month before my visit but deeper today.) Finishes thick and extremely long, with a repeating spice character and a reappearance of the mineral verve that was obvious on the nose.