2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Saint-Aubin en Montceau 1er Cru has a more northerly exposure with less limestone but more marn soils, which tend to ripen later than the other cuvées. This feels much more primal and lacks the harmony of Colin’s other cuvées; perhaps it is going through an awkward stage in its barrel maturation. The palate is a little reduced at the moment but demonstrates fine weight and a slightly waxy texture, almost as if there was a splash of Aligoté on the finish. Not bad at all, but it’s difficult to see how it will develop once in bottle.