2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is raised in 25% new oak and is almost entirely made from whole bunches. That stem addition gently guides the aromatics here, imparting a subtle pepperiness and earthiness that combines deftly with the vivid black fruit; perhaps there is less blue fruit here compared to other Bonnes-Mares this vintage. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, reminiscent of de Vogüé in some ways. The slightly confit finish manages to retain impressive freshness. It is missing a little persistence, but otherwise this is a fine, quite delicious Bonnes-Mares.