2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Mouton Rothschild is a huge, enveloping wine. Inky dark fruit, spice, chocolate, mocha, new leather and licorice are amplified with dramatic intensity. A wine of volume and breadth, the 2022 is super-concentrated and generous. At the outset, I thought the 2022 resembled the 1986. From bottle, it most definitely does not. The tannins are softer, while the Cabernet Sauvignon savoriness, such a signature of the 1986, is hidden under the wine's baby fat, notwithstanding a blend built on 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, very high for Mouton. That said, it is extremely hard to compare wines across eras, given how much has changed since the 1980s. The 2022 Mouton Rothschild is a potent, explosive Pauillac that will need a number of years to be at its best and most expressive.