2024 Wachau and Lower Austria: Calamities and Coups de Coeur (Jun 2025)

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Käferberg, from volcanic amphibolite soils, opens with a slight reductive funkiness. The palate is smooth and elongated, edged with lemon zest and a lovely pithiness that adds salt. There is some alcoholic power, but the more you savor, the more this delicious saltiness comes to the fore. Wonderfully zesty, wonderfully long.