A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Mouton-Rothschild is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years (although it was a regular fixture during the 2000s). It is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Showing some signs of bricking on the rim, it has certainly matured with a little more alacrity in the last few years, fully mature with blackberry, freshly rolled tobacco, sandalwood and mint. To be frank, it does not put a distance between itself and its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin: soy-tinged black fruit, foursquare with a sharp tang of spice towards the linear finish. It feels conservative and correct, although it does not give the delineation and precision that I feel that Philippe Dhalluin has imparted in recent vintages. Tasted at the château.