A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Gruaud Larose is a vintage that I have only tasted once before, just after bottling. It has a deep, slightly turbid core with just a thin line of bricking on the rim. The nose is a little simple compared to other vintages, but it is undeniably charming with blackberry, sandalwood and a discrete touch of peppermint. It just misses the precision more recent vintages have shown. The palate is medium-bodied with gritty tannin. This is a masculine Gruaud Larose, quite structured with satisfying freshness. Broad-shouldered with a tarry, undergrowth-tinged finish, this is a fine Saint Julien that should drink well for another decade even if it does lack a bit of grace. Tasted at the château.