A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Domaine de Chevalier is a vintage that I had not encountered for a decade. Now at 20-year old it is still a little conservative on the nose and juxtaposed against the 2008, I find the younger vintage has more fruit and charm. This plays it safe, remaining correct and just a little withdrawn. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, slightly dry tannin but a very fine thread of acidity. The fruit feels black and sultry, though there is respectable weight and presence with a spicy finish with a dab of Shezchuan pepper that leaves the mouth tingling. Fine although given that 1998 was a benevolent vintage for the Pessac-Léognan, I was expecting more. Tasted at the château.