A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Vieux Château Certan, a blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, is a vintage that I have not tasted for a few years. It has an intriguing nose, difficult to fathom out at the beginning, with noticeable algae-like notes that tinge the predominantly black fruit. These aromatics need time to coalesce and eventually offer a discreet peppermint scent. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, almost powdery tannin, but plenty of freshness. Secondary notes of leather and black pepper, cedar and sage begin to dictate the second half, and the long, peppery finish leaves you eager for another sip. While there is something conservative about this VCC – which, incidentally, you would swear contains more than 5% Cabernet Sauvignon – it has ample tension and energy and should offer another decade of drinking pleasure. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the estate.