A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou has always been a difficult wine to love, and this replicates its previous two showings. Readers should note that this came directly from the property and was assured to be unaffected by the taint that afflicted much of the production at this time. Yet there is still a sense of dumbness on the nose, a lack of brightness; a bouquet scalped of what makes Ducru-Beaucaillou such a great wine. The palate is medium-bodied with cedar-infused black fruit that dovetails into more red fruit toward the second half. Like the aromatics, it is missing the tension and backbone of better vintages; it delivers decent length but never quite achieves lift-off. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at Hatched in London.