A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Calon-Ségur is a vintage that I have tasted regularly over the years. I tasted this wine on two separate occasions, firstly at the property in December 2018 and secondly at a dinner in London in July 2019. Strangely, the latter was a far superior bottle. At 30-years of age it sports thin bricking on the rim, not dissimilar the 1989 Cos d’Estournel. The bouquet on the ex-château bottle was surprisingly light and ferrous whereas the bottle in London bestows far more red fruit laced with iron filing and sandalwood. Observing its evolution in glass over 30 minutes it evolves satisying cohesion with irresistible sous-bois and more dried flower scents. The palate on both bottles is medium-bodied, though perversely felt more rustic, the tannins coarser on the ex-château bottle. The bottle in London was framed by my pliant tannins and certainly displayed more fruit with an array of gorgeous brambly red fruit, thyme and tobacco notes. And whereas the Bordeaux bottle attenuated towards the finish, this London bottle came across more generous and with grip. I scored the Bordeaux bottle in the high 80s, however the London bottle was an absolute joy amidst much grander vinous company and my score reflects this.