A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1963 Vintage Port from Taylor’s remains a fabulous “Everest” of a fortified wine. It is still limpid in hue and has a compelling bouquet with ebullient black and blue fruit, singed leather, clove and tobacco, still retaining its floral elements. The palate is beautifully balanced with layers of fruit undiminished by the passing six decades. This bottle felt slightly lusher than previous examples, with touches of cassis that cloak the slightly viscous finish. Just fabulous. Tasted at Olivier Bernard’s “Three” dinner at Domaine de Chevalier.