A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Latour is served blind with a mischievous Nicolas Glumineau next door at Pichon-Lalande. This is a fine showing for a wine unfairly lying in the shadow of the previous vintage. Blackberry, tobacco and shavings of black truffle on the nose that is higher-toned than you would expect (indeed, it throws me off identifying the château). The palate is beautifully balanced, fresh as a daisy and youthful compared to other bottles tasted. It’s minerally on the finish. This is a delightful First Growth that you would write off at your peril.