A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

It is time that the 1982 Haut-Brion got the respect it deserves. Forever deemed the “least” of the First Growth, that holds no water if this example is anything to go by, the best of a couple of dozen bottles encountered over many years. Amazingly-fresh on the nose, this shimmers with red fruit, black olive, meat juices and incense, gaining vigour with each swirl of the glass. The palate is perfectly balanced with a lovely line of acidity, focused and refined with just a slightly roasted character towards the finish. Harmonious and effortless, it is the kind of claret that leaves you grinning like a Cheshire cat. Tasted at the 1982 Dinner at Hatched.