A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Haut-Brion has a more sophisticated and delineated bouquet than the 2005 La Mission Haut-Brion with layer upon layer of pure black fruit commingling with crushed stone, Montecristo cigar and light black olive scents. It becomes more floral as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly powdery texture and a peppery, liquorice-tinged finish. That it feels more savoury compared to previous bottles is a sign of its evolution. This needs more time but is a fabulous First Growth, albeit one eclipsed by subsequent vintage where I feel that Jean-Philippe Delmas foraged more finesse and precision. Tasted at the château.