A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Grand Puy Lacoste, which was vinified in epoxy-lined concrete vats, was tasted at the château with Emeline Borie. Borie remarked that it evinced a more rustic approach at the estate, and to honest, it did not impress. A week later, I took my own bottle that I had acquired via a West Country merchant to dinner with a friend…this was far superior! It displayed far less rusticity on the nose with ample redcurrant and raspberry fruit, sage, sandalwood and melted asphalt. The palate is quite weighty with perhaps uncouth tannins, but there is a fine line of acidity and much more fruit purity towards the finish, which displays the vintage's signature velvety texture. Not complex per se, but utterly delicious. My score is based on this bottle instead of the one at the château.