A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Cos Estournel is a vintage that I had not tasted for several years, made in the temporary winery at the time using a vertical press and peristaltic pumps for the first time. Deep in colour with light bricking on the rim, it has a thoroughly enjoyable nose that has matured a little since my last encounter: blackberry, loam, hints of star anise and sage emerge. Strangely, there is something a little Burgundian about this Saint-Estèphe. The palate is full-bodied with grippy tannins and notes of chocolate chip and candied orange peel, savoury and a little animally in style. I think it has lost a soupçon of elegance in the interim since it feels assertive on the finish, but I feel that five or six hours' decanting would smooth its edges. Tasted at the château.