A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Château Margaux is the best First Growth of the vintage, when the late Paul Pontallier was just getting his groove on. At almost 40 years it is a spellbinding wine. This has a crystalline bouquet that soars from the glass with Morello cherries, crushed strawberry and light floral scents—precision, precision, precision. The palate follows suit with filigree tannins, a perfect line of acidity, balletic poise and focus. There's real fruit intensity to this First Growth and yet a paradoxical weightlessness on the finish. A brilliant wine that is à point. Tasted at the 1985 dinner at Noble Rot Mayfair.