A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pape Clément has a forward nose with a touch of Wellington boot – rubbery aromas that obscure some of the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. It’s mature after 20 years with ferrous red fruit, leading to a savory finish that suggests bottles should be opened in the next 4-5 years. Fine, but I like the La Tour Carnet just as much.