A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Branaire-Ducru has an attractive nose with more fruit concentration than expected: red cherries, wild strawberries, cedar and fennel. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. It’s compact at first, with savory notes developing towards the slightly lactic finish that has just a touch of austerity. It’s more muscular than today’s wines, but it’s a quintessential old-school Saint-Julien that can be enjoyed now.