A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 1996 Mouton Rothschild was poured from an ex-château magnum. I had perhaps forgotten that this is probably the finest Mouton from that decade. Fragrant on the nose, it offers gorgeous, pure blackberry scents interlaced with cherry liqueur, cassis and tobacco, conveying a sense of controlled opulence. It is just very…Mouton. The palate sprints out of the blocks with wonderful cassis and blackberry notes, an underlying sapidity that comes to the fore after 20-30 minutes. Sapid on the energetic finish, it seems to mellow with time, gaining more and more composure. This is drinking beautifully now and will continue to do so for many years. Tasted at the Académie du Vin dinner in Bordeaux.