A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Léoville Barton, the second vintage made in the new winery, was the first to be completely gravity-fed instead of using pumps. It has a magnificent bouquet that fulfills my admittedly lofty expectations given its showing from barrel, blessed with an almost pixelated quality that previous vintages perhaps lacked. The nose is very precise with pure black fruit and fine mineralité. Elegant and poised, the medium-bodied palate features finely chiseled tannins and just the right amount of bitterness on the finish. Very persistent—a Saint-Julien you just don’t want to finish. This ranks among the finest in the appellation.