A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 La Mission Haut-Brion, as usual, deserves five minutes in the glass before sticking your nose into it. Scents of black plum, gravel, violet and crushed stone emerge; that Earl Grey element is not as obvious as it was out of barrel. This is beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. Extremely pure with unerring symmetry, the 2022 builds through the caressing and persistent finish. Maybe for some it does not have the grip of top vintages, though you cannot argue against its riveting complexity and persistence in the mouth. All that said, juxtaposing the two side-by-side for 30 minutes, it must take the silver medal to 2022 Haut-Brion.