A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Les Pagodes de Cos takes a few swirls of the glass to unfurl, perhaps never quite clicking into fifth gear. Tobacco-stained black fruit, briary and woodland scents eventually emerge; with decanting I suspect this would transmute into an attractive bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, quite symmetrical and extremely well balanced. It is not the most powerful or complex northern Médoc and yet there is surfeit elegant and poise. Enjoy this now and over the next decade. Perversely, I prefer this to the Grand Vin! Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.