A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 1989 Lafleur is now asserting itself as the best of the 1988/19889/1990 triumvirate, and that means it is very good. The bouquet is utterly entrancing from first acquaintance, with effervescent and multi-faceted brambly red fruit, black truffle, earthenware and light roasted chestnut scents—quintessential Pomerol. The palate has plenty of concentration, though the passing years have tempered that, smoothing the tannins and manifesting a cornucopia of secondary dried blood and chestnut notes. I cannot remember bottles being quite as elegant as this magnum, and the peacock’s tail on the finish is something to behold. Utterly sublime. Tasted from ex-château magnum at Kate & Kon’s 40-year vertical in Austria.