All Change: New Zealand Reds (Apr 2023)

The 2020 Pinot Noir is an energetic yet elegant expression that’s mid-weight in volume but has plenty of substance and sinew. Initially, there’s a little residual CO2 providing a hint of spritz before settling into a rather savory style with brooding wild herb flavors as well as appetizing cherry and plum fruit. The wine’s winning charm comes from its precision and texture: naturally fresh acidity provides line and combines with plentiful tannins to create a structured frame holding wine tight. The finish has a sense of dryness and grip, which is probably a combination of the 30% whole bunches and the 18 months in 30% new French oak barrels. Time in bottle will be kind to it Brooding fruit, black tea leaf and festive spices linger. This is a Marlborough Pinot Noir that is ever improving.