Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2006 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru, which would have been made by Sylvain Cathiard himself, has developed wonderfully in bottle. It has a floral bouquet with quite plush black fruit, crushed violets and an almost Morey-Saint-Denis-like style. The palate is structured, and to quibble, I observe a little dryness just beginning to creep in towards the peppery finish. But otherwise, this is a generous, intense Malconsorts that still has at least a decade of pleasure to give.