Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

This bottle of 2004 Montrachet Grand Cru (Marquis de Laguiche) was not quite at the level of the spellbinding bottles served five years earlier. It retains that lovely citrus-fresh, hazelnut-tinged nose that becomes ever flintier with aeration. It might be quibbling, but this bottle does not deliver the same tension as I found before, despite the wonderful salinity that gets the saliva flowing on the finish. It’s still a superb “Monty”, but there are superior examples out there.