Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Léoville Las-Cases was much feted back in the day, with perfect scores commonplace, though over the years I have found it rather curmudgeonly and surpassed by the ’86. This has an intriguing bouquet that takes time to cohere, revealing scents of blackberry, leather, loam and light liquorice. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip, very impressive in terms of structure, with a little more freshness than the bottle three years earlier and a bit more openness and expressiveness. However, it is outperformed by both the Gruaud Larose and the Léoville Poyferré. Tasted single blind at the 1982 dinner at Cornus in London.