Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Haut-Brion can give the ’89 a run for its money on the right day. This is intense on the nose, with blackberry, tobacco, gravel and just a light touch of camphor. It has stunning delineation and is perhaps the most mercurial ’90 First Growth at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied and powerful, although this bottle was missing the finesse that I have discerned in previous bottles. It fans out beautifully on the finish and is surfeited with personality, yet I know full well that there are better examples out there. Tasted single-blind at the 1990 Bordeaux dinner at Medlar.