Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

Every now and then, you chance upon a 1982 Mouton-Rothschild that blows you away. This is one such example. It has a wonderful, outgoing, precocious bouquet, with blackberry, cedar and a sprig of wild mint that is so exuberant it enraptures the olfactory senses. The palate is fuller and denser than the ’82 Pichon-Lalande, with wonderful poise and layers of graphite-tinged black fruit mixed with light aniseed notes. It is unapologetically extravagant and yet it is all delivered with a kind of carefree joie de vivre. Stupendous. Tasted single blind at the 1982 dinner at Cornus in London.