Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1982 Cos d’Estournel. This has an elegant bouquet with refined red fruit, cedar and brown spices, with hints of aniseed and peppermint surfacing with aeration. It is not profoundly complex but it is difficult to resist its charms. The palate has a conspicuously ripe and generous entry, rounded and a little meaty in style, with cracked black pepper. With fine grip, this Saint-Estèphe coheres with style on the finish. It is not quite as good as the bottle opened at the château, though it proves that there is plenty of life in this ’82. Tasted single blind at the 1982 dinner at Cornus in London.