Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Léoville Barton has a slightly feral nose compared to its peers, probably due to some Brettanomyces, leaning towards Rhône in style, with hints of coffee granules that, frankly, are a bit off-putting. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly crunchy texture, plenty of black fruit intermixed with cedar and tobacco, showing some dryness on the finish. But this does improve markedly in the glass, cohering and the aromatics dispensing with some of their animal elements, prompting me to raise my initially parsimonious score. Tasted single blind at the 1982 dinner at Cornus in London.