Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that has been variable over the years and this example merely adds to the bottle-to-bottle inconsistency. It starts promisingly with quite a mineral-driven bouquet, more intensity than the ’82 Beychevelle, plenty of black fruit mixed with undergrowth and leather, a touch of chlorophyll too. The palate is medium-bodied and shows a little more VA than expected; likewise I was not the only person who thought there was some Brettanomyces marring the finish. Over 30 minutes it becomes quite herbal. Like a misbehaving child! Tasted single blind at the 1982 dinner at Cornus in London.