Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Léoville Poyferré has trumped Las-Cases in previous blind tastings. This is another great Saint-Julien that has stood the test of time, the vintage that really announced Didier Cuvelier and a resurgent château. It has a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of aniseed percolating through with time, all delivered with superb delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with finely honed tannins and a silver thread of acidity. This is one of the more elegant Poyferrés, abraded masterfully by passing time, with just a subtle bitterness on the finish. Divine. Tasted single blind at the 1982 dinner at Cornus in London.