Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Montrose is notoriously unpredictable, veering from monumental to misfire between bottles. This is definitely the former. It has an intense nose and yes, unmistakably there is some Brettanomyces, though it politely remains in the background and allows those lovely black fruit, loam and iris flower scents to blossom in the glass. Wonderful focus. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins, exquisite balance and a precise, lingering finish. This used to be quite a monster but time is taming the beast. Unequivocally, one of the best bottles that I have encountered… who knows how the next will show? Tasted single blind at the 1990 Bordeaux dinner at Medlar.