Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

It has been a long time since I encountered a bottle of 1995 Léoville Barton. It has a mature, slightly fungal bouquet, a little smudged and certainly without the precision or complexity of the 1995 Ducru Beaucaillou. Yet it develops a heart-warming camphor note with aeration, allied with used tea leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins, gentle grip, and is surprisingly youthful with hints of desiccated orange peel on the finish. This has much more to give. Tasted at the 1995 Bordeaux off-line at Piccolino in London.