Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1961 Lynch Bages came from an ex-château bottle. This is clearly superior to the 1961 Pichon Baron served in tandem, with slightly rustic, ferrous red berry fruit, hints of red brick and tobacco. There is sufficient freshness and delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with delicate, pretty red fruit, nothing powerful but quite refined, with cedar towards the slightly austere finish, just a dab of capsicum emerging with time. It pales against the 1989 or 1990 but this was a decent showing for a Pauillac that is nearing the end of its drinking window. Tasted at the 1961 dinner at Ami restaurant in Hong Kong.