Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(80% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot and 2% petit verdot; a 50% selection for the grand vin; 80% new oak) Deep ruby-red. Captivating aromas of blackcurrant, sweet spices and milk chocolate, nicely lifted by hints of minerals and graphite. Enters the mouth creamy and fruity, with flavors of small berries and plum, then turns somewhat tighter and distinctly minerally on the long, smooth, restrained finish. This is classic claret, a wine admirably combining grace and power, and just one of a string of very fine wines from Calon-Segur in the last ten years. Denise Capbern-Gasqueton is still very active (at 85 years of age) in the day-to-day running of the winery, helped out brilliantly by technical director and winemaker Vincent Millet, who told me that the long autumn saved us: in 2008 we started picking the cabs on the day we had finished in 2007.